Casentino

What the Casentino is

The Arno rises on Monte Falterona and spends its first 50 km in the Casentino, a wide valley in the north of Arezzo province, before turning towards Arezzo and then Florence. The valley floor has small towns and fields; the ridges around it are covered in beech, silver fir and chestnut.

Much of the north-eastern ridge is protected as the Foreste Casentinesi, Monte Falterona and Campigna National Park, shared with Emilia-Romagna. Its Sasso Fratino reserve is part of a UNESCO World Heritage listing of Europe's ancient beech forests. Deer and wolves live here, and the red-deer rut in late September and October is a local event.

History runs deep. The Conti Guidi counts ruled from a string of castles; the Battle of Campaldino in 1289, between Florentine Guelphs and Aretine Ghibellines, was fought on the plain below Poppi — Dante fought in it, and later stayed in the valley in exile.

The towns

Poppi. A hill town crowned by the Castello dei Conti Guidi, the best-preserved medieval castle in the area, with frescoes, a fine library of manuscripts and a view over the battlefield of Campaldino. The arcaded main street below is pleasant for lunch.

Bibbiena. The valley's largest town, more practical than pretty, with a small historic centre and the train station.

Stia and Pratovecchio. At the head of the valley. Stia's long sloping piazza and its Wool Museum tell the story of panno casentino, the thick, brightly coloured felted wool cloth still made here — often in orange or green.

Romena. A ruined Guidi castle above Pratovecchio and, below it, the Romanesque Pieve di Romena, one of the most beautiful country churches in Tuscany.

The monasteries

Camaldoli. In the 11th century St Romuald founded a hermitage high in the fir forest, and a monastery a few kilometres below. Both are still active. The Sacro Eremo has individual monks' cells you can see through a gate, and the lower monastery has a 16th-century pharmacy selling herbal liqueurs and remedies made by the monks.

La Verna. A sanctuary on the edge of a sheer limestone cliff on Monte Penna, where St Francis of Assisi is said to have received the stigmata in 1224. The complex includes chapels with glazed terracottas by Andrea della Robbia and a corridor of frescoes. A procession of the friars walks to the Chapel of the Stigmata every afternoon. Dress modestly; it's a working place of pilgrimage.

Both can be visited by car in a day; walking between them on the long-distance Via di Francesco is a pilgrimage in itself.

Walking

Trails start from Camaldoli, Badia Prataglia and Passo della Calla into the national park, with marked circuits from an hour to a full day. The climb to the source of the Arno on Monte Falterona is a classic half-day.

The long-distance Sentiero Italia and Grande Escursione Appenninica cross the park. In autumn, the beech woods turn copper and gold — the best time to walk.

Food

This is mountain food. Look for tortelli di patate, potato-filled pasta often with a meat or mushroom ragù, and tortelli alla lastra, a griddled version cooked on a hot stone; prosciutto del Casentino from the local grey pigs; chestnut flour; porcini; and game. Bread is often unsalted in the Tuscan style.

Where to base

Poppi. The best-looking small town, central for both monasteries.

An agriturismo in the hills. The Casentino has excellent farm stays with forest views.

Camaldoli or Badia Prataglia. For walkers who want to start straight from the door.

Arezzo. Workable for a day trip, combined with our Cortona and Arezzo guide.

What to skip

Visiting La Verna during a big feast day without planning. On major Franciscan dates, especially around the Feast of the Stigmata on 17 September, the sanctuary is very busy.

Mountain roads in winter without the right tyres. Passes such as the Passo della Calla can close or require chains.

Best time to visit

September and October. The deer rut, porcini, chestnuts and autumn colour.

May and June. Fresh green, long walking days and warm valley evenings.

Summer. Cooler than the rest of Tuscany — a good escape from the heat of Florence.

Getting there

By car from Arezzo (about 45 minutes to Poppi on the SR71) or from Florence over the Consuma pass (around 1h 15m).

A local railway runs from Arezzo up the valley through Bibbiena and Poppi to Stia. Buses connect some villages, but the monasteries are best reached by car.