Etruscan Coast

What the Etruscan Coast is

The name is a modern tourism brand, but it fits. Between Livorno and Piombino the Etruscans mined iron and copper and traded across the Mediterranean, and their cities and cemeteries are still being excavated. The coast falls almost entirely in Livorno province, with some inland hills belonging to Pisa.

From north to south: the rocky shore and coves below Livorno (Castiglioncello, Quercianella); the long sandy stretch from Cecina to San Vincenzo; the wine villages of Bolgheri and Castagneto on the hills behind; and finally the promontory of Populonia and the bay of Baratti, with Piombino at its tip.

Bolgheri and the wine

The Viale dei Cipressi. A straight avenue of around 2,500 cypresses, nearly 5 km long, running from the Aurelia road to the hamlet of Bolgheri. It was made famous by Giosuè Carducci's poem Davanti San Guido. Drive it slowly; there's nowhere to stop on it.

Bolgheri village is a few lanes inside a castle gate, with wine bars and shops pouring the local reds by the glass.

The Super Tuscans. In the 1940s the Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta planted Cabernet on his estate here; its wine, Sassicaia, went on sale in the 1970s and changed Italian wine. Ornellaia, Masseto, Guado al Tasso and dozens of others followed. Bolgheri now has its own DOC, and Sassicaia its own sub-zone. Visits to the famous names are by appointment and often booked well ahead; smaller estates are easier to visit.

Beyond Bolgheri. Val di Cornia and Suvereto make sturdy Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet blends at lower prices, and Vermentino is the white to drink with fish.

For the Tuscan wine picture as a whole, see our food and wine guide.

Baratti and Populonia

The Gulf of Baratti is a curved bay of pine woods and darkish sand coloured by ancient iron slag. It's one of the most beautiful beaches in Tuscany, and busy on summer weekends.

The Archaeological Park of Baratti and Populonia sits right behind it. Populonia was the only major Etruscan city built on the coast, and its necropolis has tumulus tombs and chamber tombs cut into the rock of the old quarries. Allow half a day; buy a combined ticket for the trails.

Populonia Alta, the walled hamlet on the hill above, has a small tower and one of the finest views on this coast.

The hill villages

Castagneto Carducci. A compact village around a castle, with views down the vineyards to the sea.

Suvereto. One of the most complete medieval villages on the coast, with arches, a cloister and good restaurants. In late November and December it holds a wild-boar festival.

Campiglia Marittima. A fortified village above the Parco Archeominerario di San Silvestro, where you can walk into old mine tunnels and see the remains of a medieval mining village.

Sassetta. A village in cork-oak and chestnut woods, cooler than the coast in summer.

The beaches

Castiglioncello and Quercianella. Rocky coves and clear water, best for swimming off rocks.

Cecina, Marina di Bibbona and San Vincenzo. Long sandy beaches backed by pine woods, with a mix of free stretches and beach clubs. San Vincenzo has a lively marina and seafront.

Rimigliano. The pine-wood park between San Vincenzo and Baratti, with several kilometres of mostly free beach.

Rosignano's 'white beaches'. The bright white sand and Caribbean-looking water at Spiagge Bianche are coloured by discharges from the nearby Solvay chemical works. Many visitors enjoy them anyway; know what you're looking at.

Where to base

A wine estate near Bolgheri or Castagneto. Vineyards, a pool and beaches ten minutes away.

San Vincenzo. The best small resort town for a beach stay without a car — it has a train station.

Suvereto or Campiglia. For atmosphere and restaurants inland.

Piombino. Only if you're catching an early ferry to Elba.

What to skip

Turning up at the top estates without an appointment. You won't get in.

Baratti on an August Sunday afternoon. The car parks fill early. Go first thing, or in the evening.

Driving after a tasting. The Aurelia is fast and busy; plan a driver if you're tasting seriously.

Best time to visit

June and September. Warm sea, open beach clubs, wineries in full swing — the best balance.

July and August. Peak beach season, heavily Italian. Book everything.

Autumn. Harvest in September and early October, then the village food festivals. Beach towns quieten fast after mid-September.

Getting there

Trains on the Pisa–Rome coastal line stop at Castiglioncello, Cecina, Bolgheri (the station is several kilometres from the village), Castagneto Carducci–Donoratico, San Vincenzo and Campiglia Marittima, where you change for Piombino.

By car, the SS1 Aurelia dual carriageway runs the length of the coast. Pisa airport is about an hour from Bolgheri; Florence about 1h 45m.